The Why and How
I
am native of New York City (Queens, to be exact). I grew up surrounded by a family of food experimenters. When I look back, the “just try it” approach
to tasting something unrecognizable to a kid influenced me without my even
being aware of it. My mother stocked
the fridge with the funkiest and smelliest foods a kid could imagine. The only thing that got me off the streets,
during my hoodlum phase; was the Julia Child and Galloping Gourmet cooking
series, which aired on PBS at 3:00 p.m. And then there was my Uncle Charlie who worked for Breyer’s Ice Cream,
RediWhip and Domino Sugar – all-American household names. Besides visiting him
at work and witnessing production at their plants, I worked with him during
school vacation, drilling core samples of meat in a Philadelphia meat packing
freezer for a food laboratory. An eye
opening experience to say the least and a kick in the head as to where our food
comes from. In hindsight, my food origin consciousness was already being
developed.
Following
a short-lived theatre career (needed money) and a painful bike and truck
messenger stint (two hernias), the mother of all wakeup calls was about to
occur. My step-dad, Ken, was the
general manager of B&G Pickles, a tri-state area favorite. Hearing my mother’s resounding “Get a Job!”
always ringing in my head, Dad Ken had no choice, nor did I. Off to pickle land I went.
Ken
softened the blow by telling me that I could work outside (boss’s pet?) on the
pickle separator (maybe not). Oh
Joy. Twelve hours a day, six days a
week, at $2.75 an hour (minimum wage) separating cucumbers into three
categories: Dill, Gherkins and Tiny
Treats. Have you ever worked with
pickles? It’s wet, cold, depressing,
vinegar-suffocating, hernia-killing work that made me realize how lucky I
was. The people working around me
didn’t have career options in their life and worked there to feed their
families. Another lesson learned. Do we ever think of the people who produce
our food or do we just shove it our mouths? I believe the latter. Lesson learned
But
an unforeseen miracle was about to descend upon me.
During
my travels as a messenger in New York City, I met a photographer named Herb
Gorgolione at Seventeen Magazine. When
Herb heard I lost my job as a messenger, he called to see if I was interested
in training to become a darkroom technician for Seventeen Magazine. Pickles or
popular fashion magazine? Fashion
world, here I come. I apprenticed under
Herb and eventually became a staff photographer. Talk about, “How the hell did I get here?“ Twenty-one years old and surrounded by
models and fashionistas. I eventually went freelance. But food was my ever present passion, not photography. I met the
love of my life, sister of a co-worker at the magazine, and happily followed
her to the Bay Area for a career opportunity.
And
yet another twist of fate was about to unveil itself.
We
moved to the small town of Loma Mar, a neighbor of Pescadero, about an hour
south of San Francisco. What a far cry
from New York City it was. Country
living, redwood trees, banana slugs? One day, at a local’s party, I met Dee Harley. We chatted and I learned she was the owner of a goat dairy that
produced cheese, Harley Farms. Wow,
goat cheese. Interesting. She asked about my career and it just so
happened she needed photos and a logo for her new business. Light bulb moment: I’ll trade cheese for photos. The inner food child was
awakened in me.
We
met the following week. When I walked
into the dairy, I was floored. The smell of warm milk; the bulbous cheese bags
hanging and draining their whey; and goats frolicking in a beautiful
landscape. Instantly, I was completely
and utterly (udderly?) enveloped in this place. How did I get here? Queens? Skyscrapers? Pigeons? Was it all part of a bigger plan? Was it meant to be? You bet it
was – my true passion was about to be fulfilled. We became friends and I asked
if I could work part-time at the farm. She was surprised by my request, city boy and all. She agreed; I broke
the news to my fiancé, and the rest is history. I started in the office and
eventually became Dee’s right hand man. Taking orders from customers; making
cheese; deliveries; sales and marketing; website and collateral design; public
relations, event planning and tour guide. I lived and breathed the farm, and
loved every minute of it. But more
importantly, I became aware of the passion and commitment needed to produce a
farmstead cheese, let alone any other artisan food.
After
giving hundreds of tours over a period of many years at Harley Farms, to all
walks of life, I recognized that I may actually have a talent for teaching
about cheese and artisan foods and for spreading the message. The food culture has become elite, but I
want to make it real. It’s not what’s
on your plate, but who put it there.
The Artisan Food School is the result of my life
experiences. I want to SHARE with
people what I’ve learned from my youth and bring people along on this journey –
from pickle picking to learning how to make Pecorino Toscano in Italy – by
making it entertaining, informative and most importantly, fun. And by keeping it real. All of the meat drilling, pickle separating,
model gawking and hooliganism will have been worth every minute when I hear the
words, “Thanks, that was fun.” It’s that
simple. It’s what I was meant to do.
I
dedicate this new venture to my Mom, Dad-Ken, my sister Cathy, Uncle Charlie, Julia, Graham,
Lynne (my rock) and all of the people who put food on our table.
Cheers,
Wil
Edwards
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